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rejuvenate your mind, body and soul |
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Sauna Bath Construction
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FRAMING CONSIDERATIONS FOR PRE-CUT PACKAGES |
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FRAMING CONSIDERATIONS
1A. Framing for Horizontal T&G Application
The entire sauna should have 2x4 framing on all four sides and the ceiling.
If a portion of the sauna is solid wall construction (brick, block, etc.) those
walls should be framed with vertical 2x2 firing strips of standard 2x4 framing.
All framing is standard 16" on center.
1B. Framing for Vertical T&G Application
If you plan to install your T&G vertical, you have two framing options.
Method 1:Install 2x2 or 2x4 nailer between the studs. For standard 7' high saunas
evenly space and fasten 4 levels of nailers between the top plate and base plate
of your walls. Method 2:For standard 7' high saunas evenly space and fasten six
1x2 firing strips across the studs.
2. Baseplate
We recommend the baseplate be constructed of treated 2x4s for added protection
against moisture on the floor. All other framing can be any suitable framing material
such as SPF 2x4s. The floor should be a waterproof surface such as tile, linoleum
or concrete.
3. Ceiling Framing
The ceiling height should be framed at 7' or less (minimum of 75") off
the floor. If the ceiling is currently over 7' it should be dropped for proper sauna
performance. Generally 2x4 ceiling framing is adequate but in cases of a a span
of 8' or over consider using 2x6 lumber.
4. Corner Studs
Be sure you have a stud in each corner of the room to allow fastening of
the ends of the T&G boards. |
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5. Framing the Doorway
Make sure to frame your doorway perfectly plumb and square. Frame the left and right
sides with a double 2x4 for added strength. For a standard wood door create a rough
opening (R.O.) 2" wider and 2" taller than the door size ordered. A standard wood
door is 24" x 80" and the R.O. should be framed to 26" x 82". NOTE: If you have
a handicap (ADA) door, consider leaving the baseplate clear for wheelchair access.
6. Framing for Air Outlet
The outlet vent should be located as far from the inlet
as possible, diagonally across the room. Frame the opening the same size as the
inlet (6" x 4") with the top of the opening 23" off the floor in standar situations.
It is not recommended to install the outlet any higher than 30" to ensure minimal
loss of heat from the sauna. Again, use an existing stud for one side of the vent.
Additional 2x4s will need to be cut to form the other 3 sides of the vent. boards.
7. Framing for Heater Mounting Bracket
Determine the location of the heater in the sauna as recommended by your
sauna representative or as described by your heater installation instructions and
template supplied with the heater. Add two 2x4 supports between the studs for the
heater brackets.
NOTE: The metal heater hanging brackets are installed after the
T&G installation. The height and location of the supports is determined by the
mounting instructions supplied with the heater. The 2x4 supports are not needed
when using the optional floor stand or commercial floor standing heaters.
8. Electrical Rough-In
Once the sauna is fully framed, and before the insulation is installed,
the electrical rough-in should be done by a licensed electrician.
Warning: Follow wiring instructions provided with the heater. Always
use proper wire size and type as specified in your heater instructions provided
in your heater box.
9. Insulation
Using 31 2" thick fiberglass bats, insulate the interior walls of your
sauna by tucking it between the studs.
NOTE: Un-backed bats are best to prevent a double vapor barrier
which could trap moisture. If you only have backed insulation keep the paper/foil
side to the interior of the room. For the ceiling use either a single layer of 6"
fiberglass or you may wish to use a double layer of 3 1 2" fiberglass. To do this,
hang the first layer perpendicular to the ceiling joists and then pound nails into
the bottoms of the joists and hang the second layer on the nails between the joists.
10. Sheetrock
Check with your local building codes for sheetrock recommendation. |
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